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Petroleum-derived ingredients: successful in cosmetics, but… concerning?
Petroleum-derived ingredients: successful in cosmetics, but… concerning?
Consumers want to know what is in their cosmetics. But what exactly are petroleum derivatives, why are they in so many products, and should we really be concerned?
In recent years there has been a growing demand for information from consumers. They want to know what the product is, where it comes from, how it is made, and what each of its constituents does.
Consumers have become increasingly aware of the presence of ingredients derived from the petrochemical industry in all types of cosmetic products, from bath products to facial moisturisers, lip balms and even toothpaste! You may not even realise it, but you could literally be “eating” mineral oil.
But what exactly are petroleum derivatives?
The truth is, petroleum-derived ingredients are remarkable. This industry has been well established for over a century, and most of the organic compounds obtained from crude oil are very well characterised. Moreover, petroleum is composed of such varied molecules that they can be separated into fractions according to their melting point.
These fractions can then be used as liquid-phase oils, oils that are only liquid at certain ambient temperatures, oils that never solidify at low temperatures, waxes with different temperature ranges, various polymers, and so on. The list goes on, and it is easy to imagine all the possible applications for these oils, waxes and the like.
And the greatest marvel is that all these components are versatile. They can be easily modified by adding or removing hydrogen and oxygen atoms, playing around with carbon atoms and converting alcohols into ethers, or carboxylic acids into esters. For a passionate and creative chemist, the potential of petroleum-derived components is limitless.
It is little wonder that petroleum-derived ingredients have dominated the cosmetics industry. They are the base of many facial creams, bath gels and shampoos; they feature in lip balms, mascaras, lipsticks and glosses.
How to identify them on a label
It is relatively straightforward to identify these ingredients in the component list of a cosmetic product, since European legislation requires that this list be presented in descending order of percentage in each formula. For example, if you find the words Paraffinum Liquidum near the top of the list (e.g. Aqua, Paraffinum Liquidum, etc.) you can be sure it is one of the main components in that formula.
Common names of petroleum derivatives in cosmetics:
The problem with occlusives
Many petroleum-derived ingredients are used for their occlusive properties. “Occlusive” refers to a product that “seals” or “covers” the surface of the skin, concealing imperfections and promoting an even appearance. This property is highly sought after in make-up products such as BB creams and CC creams.
What I find striking, at times, is that these occlusive ingredients can make up as much as 30% of a cream formula (in which 60% is water) intended for atopic skin, eczema or psoriasis treatment — skin conditions that typically involve structural abnormalities, leaving people with a feeling of dryness and itching and requiring the replenishment of lipids across the various layers of the dermis.
If 60% of the formula is water and 30% is occlusive material to provide skin protection and smoothness, what happens to the remaining 10% of the formula’s ingredients? Given that emulsifying agents, stabilisers, preservatives and possibly a fragrance are also needed, how much nourishing material are you actually providing your skin?
And: are the oils used actually compatible with the different layers of your skin, so that they can be absorbed and incorporated to help renew the deeper layers?
The way forward: vegetable oils compatible with the skin
Being aware of petrochemical ingredients is only the beginning. The real challenge lies in getting to know the natural, plant-derived oils that are compatible with our skin and understanding how they can provide the nourishment it needs — whilst taking on the benefits of the petroleum-derived ingredients we seek to replace.
The first part of the challenge is to create combinations of seed vegetable oils that are best suited to each skin type, adapted to different temperatures and climates, and “translatable” into various types of cosmetic formulations.
The second part of the challenge is to source batches of raw materials that are consistent over time. As we know, Mother Nature is not very predictable — she adapts to many factors and climatic events, meaning that the same cultivated field can yield batches with varying composition and quality. This is precisely where analytical rigour and quality control make all the difference.
It is in this context that Phytosphera works every day: translating the biodiversity of the Azores into cosmetic formulations that nourish, protect and respect the skin — and the planet.